Elusive Venezuelan coffee

Elusive Venezuelan coffee

A couple of weeks ago we packed our bags and took the short flight from Bogota to Caracas, crossing the snowy peaks of the Andes to check out the coffee in our neighboring country.

Then we drove west, headed for Venezuela’s coffee zone. Navigating sign-less roads and dodging some of the most erratic driving on the planet, we eventually made it to Portuguesa state, the main coffee-producing region.

Colombia's New Wave of Coffee Producers

Colombia's New Wave of Coffee Producers

From the village of Neira in Colombia's central Caldas province, we survived a stormy ‘buseta’ trip and arrived in Marsella, a little ‘pueblo’ about 70km further south in the Risaralda province.

What a spot! And we were lucky enough to stay in the Don Danilo Café/Hostel just a few steps away from the Casa de la Cultura, a well-preserved colonial house in Marsella that's home to the local youth orchestra and to many cultural activities.

Caldas, Carlos and the Don

Caldas, Carlos and the Don

The bus from Pereira to Manizales broke down. Then the bus from Manizales to Neira broke down. We were deep in Colombia’s interior coffee country and moving very, very slowly.

Eventually we made it to Neira, a small village in Colombia’s Caldas province, well off the beaten tourist trail that centers on Salento, further south. Neira is also home to Carlos, the mysterious man who had mistaken us for coffee buyers at the Medellin coffee fair some weeks earlier.